Asian Journal of Home Science

Kamalpreet Kaur ¹, Kanwaljit Kaur Brar ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana (Punjab), IN

Abstract

Traditional Naala making craft of Punjab is on the verge of varnishing. Thus, an effort was made to study opinion of clothing and textile experts for diversification of the craft. Total twenty eight designs comprising of four designs for each of seven most preferred products by college -girls were sketched. Product-wise preferences with respect to designs, motifs, yarns, colours were taken from a panel of randomly selected ten judges comprising of faculty and postgraduate students from Department of Apparel and Textile Science. Among the four designs of shrugs (A), first rank was given to A₃ (mean score 2.8). Design L₁ comb (Kanghi) for cap and design L₂ (plain) for bolster got first rank with equal mean score 7.56. Design L₃ lozenges (Burfi) for cushion cover, design L₄ square (Dabbiyan) for skirt and design L₅ holes (Moriyaan) for shrug obtained first rank with mean score 7.11 and 5.3, respectively. First rank was given to design F₆ of a bag with mean score 6.3 and design F₁ for footwear with mean score 6.5. First rank was given to yarn Y₂ for shrug with mean score 11.2, yarn Y₃ for bag (mean score 10.4). Out of twenty eight developed designs of products, seven most preferred designs of products were prepared through naala making technique.

Keywords

Product Designs, Naala (Tape), Motifs, Yarns.

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Ritu Agrahari ¹, Kanwaljit Kaur Brar ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana (Punjab), IN

Abstract

The Indian handicraft sector forms a major part of the rich cultural heritage of the country. Lucknow has carved out a name for itself in the field of chikankari craft. The number of chikankari artisans in Lucknow runs in thousands, yet the sector remains unorganised with no medical insurance, social and financial security. The chikankari artisans, especially those working for private enterprises, faced many difficulties regarding lack of skill up-gradation and direct marketing of the products. So, the prime objective of the study was to investigate the problems countenanced by chikankari artisans. A self-structured interview schedule was administered to a sample of 300 artisans who were randomly selected from the five blocks of the Lucknow district. Low wages as per intricacy and skill of work (66.00%), irregular payment (54.66%) were the major financial issues of the artisans, besides facing work related health problems like backache (36.33%), cervical spondylosis (4.66%) and eye strain (41.00%). No artisans got the medical benifits from any of the organizations/enterprises. They were vulnerable to exploitation due to poor marketing intelligence (29.00%), and irregular orders (10.67%). Inadequate transportation facility (39.32%), poor road infrastructure (81.00%), and poor electric supply (78.00%) led to wastage of time and low productivity. For the upliftment of artisans, government needs to develop more clusters, organise trainings and workshops for skill development and enhancing marketing. There is utmost need to address to these problems.

Keywords

Embroidery, Chikankari, Artisans, Problems Experienced.

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Ritu Agrahari ¹, Kanwaljit Kaur Brar ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana (Punjab), IN

Abstract

Embroidery adds grace and elegance to the articles of everyday use. Indian embroidery takes its inspiration from nature and the products of various regions reflect the colours of the flora and fauna of that area. Chikankari embroidery is one of the most ancient textile decoration style, crafted in the city of Nawabs, Lucknow. The present investigation made an attempt to study different types of flat stitches used, their variations and different types of embroidery threads used by GOs, NGOs and private enterprises (PEs). All three GOs, and ten NGOs in the list of Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Office, Barabanki, Lucknow, and thirty PEs comprising of fifteen enterprises from each of the Aminabad and Chowk market areas were randomly selected for the investigation. The study is based on primary and secondary data collected from the chairpersons/owners of Chikankari organizations/enterprises through interview technique and observational method. Majority of organisations/enterprises were using polyester and mercerised cotton embroidery threads for embroidery. There were fifteen types of flat Chikankari stitches including their variations and styles. Daraz-work was not found to be used by any of the organisations/enterprises.

Keywords

Chikankari, Embroidery, Threads, Flat-Stitches.

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Ritu Agrahari ¹, Kanwaljit Kaur Brar ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana (Punjab), IN

Abstract

Chikankari embroidery is one of the most ancient textile decoration styles. It is a distinctive integral part of the city of Nawabs, Lucknow. It is the intricate art of doing fine and delicate embroidery on cloth by hand which is known for its sheer excellence of skill, texture and delicacy. The present investigation made an attempt to study different types of embossed stitches and their variations used by GOs, NGOs and private enterprises (PEs). Three GOs and ten NGOs in the list of Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Office, Barabanki, Lucknow, and thirty PEs comprising of fifteen enterprises from each of the Aminabad and Chowk market areas were randomly selected for the investigation. Primary data were collected from the chairpersons/owners of chikankari organizations/enterprises through interview technique and observational method, besides the secondary data. There were seventeen types of embossed chikankari stitches and jali-work including their variations and styles, but only eight of these were being used in the embroidery. Majority of PEs (80.00%) carried out jali-work, though it was being done in only 40.00 per cent NGOs and 33.34 per cent GOs.

Keywords

Chikankari, Embroidery, Embossed-Stitches, Jali-Work.

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Neha Garg ¹, Kanwaljit Kaur Brar ², Harinder Kaur Saggu ²

Affiliations
1 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana (Punjab), IN
2 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana (Punjab), IN

Abstract

Sixteen nettle units established in Chamoli and Uttarkashi districts of Uttarakhand by Uttarakhand Bamboo Fibre Development Board were surveyed to document the production processes of nettle textiles. There were five fibre processing units and three spinning units with total strength of 310 workers. Nettle plants were collected from hilly areas by workers without paying any cost to the land owners. Nettle stalks were subjected to running water retting, beating and washing, bleaching with kaoline paste followed by carding and spinning. From one kilogram of nettle bark 400 g fibres could be extracted. Ultimately 300 g nettle yarn could be obtained from one kilogram nettle bark. Opening of nettle enterprise holts a promising opportunity for the economic upliftment of rural people.

Keywords

Nettle, Technical Process, Employees.

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Neha Garg ¹, Kanwaljit Kaur Brar ¹, Harinder Kaur Saggu ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana (Punjab), IN

Abstract

Nettle or Bicchu buti grows abundantly as wild plant in Chamoli and Uttarkashi in Uttarakhand. Very soft and warm nettle fibres are obtained from its bark. Only limited product line of pure nettle fabric was available in the market at a high cost. Thus, the need was felt to diversify the nettle usage and develop innovative textile textures. Thus, present study was conducted to develop eighteen nettle union fabric textures using three selected yarns viz., cotton (2/20, 2/24), acrylic (2/24, 2/32) and polypropylene (2/120, single ply) as warp along with nettle (6 Nm) yarn in weft direction in plain, basket, and twill weaves. Developed union fabrics were shown to a sample of 180 women in the age group of 25-35 years to assess their preferences for product development from union fabrics. Developed union fabrics were most preferred for jackets, stoles and various home textile products. Cotton (2/20)/nettle (6 Nm) with EPI=48, PPI=26 was preferred 41.67 per cent respondents for jacket, while 51.67 per cent respondents preferred acrylic (2/32)/nettle (6 Nm) with EPI=65, PPI=34 for stole. Developed union fabrics were comparatively cheaper as cost of cotton, acrylic and polypropylene was nearly 20 per cent of the nettle cost.

Keywords

Nettle, Union Fabrics, Weaves, Preferences.

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Neha Garg ¹, Harinder Kaur Saggu ¹, Kanwaljit Kaur Brar ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana (Punjab), IN

Abstract

The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Nettle fibres will take a major role in the emerging “green” economy based on energy efficiency, industrial processes that reduce carbon emissions and recyclable materials that minimize waste. Natural fibres are a kind of renewable resources. These are also carbon neutral; they absorb the equal amount of carbon dioxide they produce. These fibres are completely renewable, environmental friendly and bio-degradability. Also, this paper focused on different properties of cotton/nettle union fabrics. The cotton/nettle union fabrics were constructed to study the properties of fabric. To construct cotton/nettle union fabric, the cotton yarn was used as warp with nettle weft. In the study, the fabrics were prepared with three different weaves (plain, twill and basket weave). Union fabric was much cheaper in cost compared to pure nettle fabric. Those woven fabrics were tested for physical and mechanical properties. Further, data were evaluated to find out the influence of physical and mechanical properties.

Keywords

Cotton/Nettle Union Fabric, Physical, Mechanical Properties.

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Neha Garg ¹, Harinder Kaur Saggu ¹, Kanwaljit Kaur Brar ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana (Punjab), IN

Abstract

A study was performed on the acrylic/nettle union fabric to show the effect of physical and mechanical properties of union fabric. Here, the acrylic yarn was used in the warp direction and nettle yarn was used in the weft direction. Fabric weight of (AN₅) was 393.3 g/m², respectively. Fabric thickness of AN₅ fabric was 1.91 mm which was higher than the other union fabrics. It was concluded that fabrics with higher fabric weight and thickness were suitable for making home textile products viz., rug, table runner and cushion cover because these would retain shape well, and resist slippage and folds in use. Dimensional stability of AN₆, AN₁ fabric was more due to compact yarn and fabric structure in which less space was left for shrinkage. Less shrinkage was considered good for fitted textile products. AN₄ and AN₂ fabrics were found to be more durable as the breaking strength compared to other union fabricwas considered good for textile products. Fabrics with codes AN₂ exhibited more abrasion resistance and were considered good for textile products for personal use and found to be durable.

Keywords

Nettle, Acrylic, Union Fabric, Properties.

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Garima Singh ¹, Kanwaljit Kaur Brar ², Prerna Kapila ²

Affiliations
1 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, Punjab Agricultural University,Ludhiana (Punjab), IN
2 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana (Punjab), IN

Abstract

The powerloom industry in Punjab provides employment to a large number of skilled and semi-skilled workers and is reputed for its powerloom weaving. The state produces large volumes of powerloom products that find a market not only in India but foreign countries as well. The present study was conducted to document the profile of micro, small and medium powerloom enterprises of Ludhiana district of Punjab using survey method. The sample consisted of 128 MSMEs which comprised of fifty micro powerloom units, seventy-six small powerloom units and two medium powerloom units. All the micro and medium powerloom enterprises were included in the sample due to their limited total number in the list of enterprises whereas purposive probability proportional to size sampling technique was employed to select small enterprises. Largest percentage of owners of micro enterprises (64.06%) were 45-65 years in age, while 43.42 per cent owners of small enterprises were 45-55 years old followed by 30.26 who were 55-65 years old. Though the highest percentage of the owners (48.00%) of micro enterprises were educated upto graduation level but a large segment (46.00%) of micro enterprises was run by matriculate pass owners. Thus, micro enterprises were also being run successfully by owners who never went to college. Maximum percentage of the MSMEs (32.81%) were established during 1985-1995, while in comparison, a lower percentage of powerloom enterprises (12.50 %) had established in during 2005-2015. Steep rise in the establishment of small enterprises was observed during 1985-1995. After 2005, there has been a sharp decline in this trend. Majority of the MSMEs (90.62%) were located in independent industrial areas of Ludhiana city. While the rest of the enterprises were located in the industrial cum residential areas. A highest percentage of the MSMEs (49.21%) were found to be managed by owners.

Keywords

Powerloom, Micro, Small, Medium Enterprises.

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Neha Garg ¹, Harinder Kaur Saggu ¹, Kanwaljit Kaur Brar ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, College of Home Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana (Punjab), IN

Abstract

The textile industry for designing and producing new textiles from time to time. The efforts were taken to develop Eco-friendly and biodegradable fibres to control non-polluting environment. Nettle plant have been used as food, fodder and raw material in cosmetics, medicines, industry and bio-dynamic agriculture. Many experiments have been conducted not only in developing commercial textiles using nettle, but also in the growth and propagation of the crop in the most sustainable manner. The nettle union fabrics were constructed to study the properties of fabric. To construct nettle union fabric, the nettle yarn was used as weft with cotton, acrylic and polypropylene yarn as warp. In the study, the fabrics were prepared with three different weave (plain, twill and basket weave). Union fabric was much cheaper in cost compared to pure nettle fabric. Those woven fabrics were tested for physical and mechanical properties analyzed. Further, data were evaluated to find out the influence of physical and mechanical properties.

Keywords

Nettle Union Fabric, Cotton, Acrylic, Polypropylene, Physical, Mechanical Properties.

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Garima Singh ¹, Kanwaljit Kaur Brar ¹

Affiliations
1 Department of Apparel and Textile Science, Punjab Agricultural University, Ludhiana (Punjab), IN

Abstract

Making investment decision is a complex and dynamic process. The present study was conducted to identify the investment pattern of micro, small and medium powerloom enterprises of Ludhiana district in Punjab. The selected sample for the conducting survey through interview technique consisted of 128 MSMEs. All the micro (50 units) and medium powerloom enterprises (2 units) were included in the sample due to their limited total number in the list of enterprises, whereas purposive probability proportional to size sampling technique was employed to select small enterprises (76 units). Results revealed that highest percentage of the owners (71.09%) had invested their own capital to establish their enterprises, while only 7.03 per cent MSMEs had borrowed capital from friends and relatives. The owners of medium enterprises had arranged funds from public sector banks. More than half of the total MSMEs (57.14%) were operating through cash credit limit sanctioned by banks for buying of raw material and machinery. Only 15.38 per cent of the owners had availed Machinery Term Loan to get subsidy on new shuttle-less looms. Low enthusiasm prevailed among MSMEs to take benefit of subsidy schemes offered by the government. Profit percentage reported by majority of micro enterprises (84.00%) was 5-10 per cent, while according to 48.68 per cent small enterprises, it was 10-15 per cent. The profit reported by medium enterprises was upto 25 per cent. The profit percentage for medium enterprises ranges from 12 to 25 per cent. Thus, an increase in profit percentage was observed with the increase in investment pattern.

Keywords

Investment Pattern, Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises.

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